Brooklyn Pizza

An Oasis of Pizza Excellence in Mid-Missouri

On a lonely stretch of Highway 70 between St. Louis and Columbia, Brooklyn pizza in Fulton shines bright as a pizza oasis. I was on my way to court in Callaway County that afternoon, and was only planning on eating two pieces of pizza from purportedly the most authentic New York-style pizza outside of New York state. The pizza tasted so great, however, that I had four large pieces. Three of the pieces I consumed were the meatball pizza, which says a lot from stlpizzaguy whose favorite pizza is pepperoni.

When you enter to Brooklyn Pizza, everything your eye sees reminds you of red tomato sauce. The walls are all painted a bold red, with tables covered in red and white checkered tablecloths. Every poster lining the walls is a homage to either New York City or to Pizza. When you are inside Brooklyn Pizza, you are transported to a traditional New York pizza joint and forget you are in small town Mid-Missouri.

Brooklyn Pizza recently won the 2016 award for best pizza in rural Missouri by Rural Missouri Magazine. They also have a certificate of excellence from TripAdvisor. But how would they measure up against the great variety of St. Louis pizza places that I love and blog about?

They had a good chance because their unique New York-style niche is underrepresented in the Midwest. I only recommend one New York Style pizza place in St. Louis: La Pizza on Delmar.

When I met Brian Atkins, owner of Brooklyn Pizza, I found a man as passionate about making pizza as I am about eating pizza. His career in the pizza business spans four decades from his roots in Brooklyn, to managing Sbarro Pizza in Florida and Missouri. In October 2012, at the ripe age of 60 he opened Brookyln Pizza caddy-corner from the courthouse in Fulton, Missouri. Atkins says, “I’m in good health, I love making pizza. I go to the store at 4:30 a.m. to buy my meat and ingredients fresh each day."

You may wonder what makes a good, authentic New York-style pizza? Atkins told me three things are essential: the right thickness and taste of the dough, whole milk mozzarella, and last the bottom of the crust should be lightly brown and crispy. Put them together and viola. 

THE SAUCE: The sauce is a rich, hearty, and slightly sweet tomato sauce.

THE CHEESE: 100% whole milk mozzarella cheese gives the pizza it's New York flavor. The 100% whole milk mozzarella cheese also causes the New York-style pizza to be more greasy.

THE CRUST: Very crispy crust. The bottom of the crust was slightly brown. This is a hallmark of a properly cooked New York pie. 

TOPPINGS: The pepperoni were normal pepperoni but the homemade meatball slices were flavorful and a pleasurful to eat on pizza. Large, homemade meatballs are made every morning and cut into thin slices as a pizza topping.

MY RECOMMENDED PIZZA: Here I recommend the Meatball Pizza, which consists of sliced meatballs, with fresh garlic and parsley sprinkled on top. The garlic, meatballs and slightly sweet tomato sauce mesh well together in a unique and pleasureful way.

Happy eating and remember that any bad day can become a good day with great PIZZA. 

SPECIAL SHOUT OUT: 

To Stlpizzaguy superfan Joe Delmore who told me about Brooklyn Pizza.  Joe, a native New Yorker, told me that Brooklyn Pizza is just like many of the great pizza places in New York city, and hailed that it was the most authentic he has tasted outside of New York. Even with the rave reviews of Joe and a couple friends, I was skeptical because I’m stlpizzaguy—St. Louis pizza man proud and true. 

Other News For Pizza Lovers

OTHER NEWS FOR PIZZA LOVERS

This month I veered off my top 10 list to cover Randolfi's pizza. In the past five ears the St. Louis Pizza scene has experienced  Neapolitan pizza explosion that is loved and adored by diners and food critics.

Other top Neapolitan pizza places besides Randolfi's in St. Louis are:  Pastaria, Pizzeoli (vegetarian), and Pizzeria Tivoli.

Check out  February 2017 Sauce Magazine’s “The Pizza Issue.” 

Digital edition is available at: http://www.saucemagazine.com/issues.php?it=176&yy=2017

It covers in depth:

Mona’s Roman style pizza’s (started by Brendan Marsden who owned Modesto, it is an American-Italian place)

Pizzeoli: a vegetarian pizza place in Soulard. This was also recommended in the book Where to Eat Pizza. See blog post…. Where to eat pizza in st.louis

Melo’s Pizza

It touches on:

Felix’s Pizza Pub

Farotto’s

Monte Bello Pizzeria

Joanie’s Pizzeria

Pizza-A-Go-Go

Pirrone’s

Places Stlpizzaguy covers that are covered in the issue: Twinoak, Pi, Black Thorne. 

Also interesting is the profile Sauce does of Dogtown Pizza, which is an awesome, local, frozen pizza maker located in Dogtown. 

Check out SNL's skit Pizza Town

Randolfi's Makes Neapolitan Pizza Perfection

Randolfi's Makes Neapolitan Pizza Perfection

In the fall of 2010, I visited a pizza place called The Good Pie, located off Lindell Boulevard with my law school roommate Aaron Moores. It was across from the soccer field at St. Louis University. Little did I know that seven years later I would visit its offspring, Randolfi’s, in the Delmar Loop with a law-degree and as a distinguished food critic. 

Back then, with the limited pizza knowledge that I had, I failed to appreciate the thin, flimsy crust that I had to eat with a knife and fork. Now with my advances in pizza knowledge, I have a greater appreciation for this style of pizza and the true uniqueness of Randofi’s in the Loop.

The pizza here is Neapolitan-style, named after the city of Naples, Italy and is considered the most original and authentic style of pizza. Neapolitan-style pizza became famous in 1889 after Italian Queen Margherita visited Naples and enjoyed a pizza pie topped with white mozzarella cheese, red tomatoes and green basil. Coincidentally these are the colors of the Italian flag. Queen Margherita and Italians alike enjoyed this style of pizza for more than fifty years before it grew in popularity in the United States after World War II. 

Neapolitan-style pizza diverges from my more American taste in pizza, as I prefer pizza loaded with toppings of sausage and pepperoni. The Neapolitan pizza at Randofi’s does not center on the toppings but focuses on the specially sourced ingredients and the interplay of the dough, sauce, and olive oil. When tasting Neapolitan pizza for the first time, some people are caught off guard by the somewhat soupy center of the pizza, and that the middle isn't crisp. But Randofli's is worth it just to taste authentic Italian pizza.

Stlpizzaguy gives Randolfi's the "P" of Approval. Pepperoni is and always will be his favorite kind of pizza. 

SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF NEAPOLITAN PIZZA:

Neapolitan Pizza is the most heavily regulated style of pizza. A true Neapolitan pizza has very strict standards disseminated by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana (VPN) in an 11-page guide. Randolfi’s was the first St. Louis pizza restaurant to pursue VPN certification for true Neapolitan Pizza.

The person making the pizza at a Neapolitan pizza place is known as a pizzaiolo, which is Italian for pizza maker. They are much more highly trained than a pizza maker at other restaurants.

THE SAUCE: A true Neapolitan pizza place uses a specific sauce of hand-crushed San Marzano plum tomatoes, grown in the rich, volcanic soil near and around Mount Vesuvius in southern Italy. Authentic San Marzano tomatoes come to the U.S. in a can and will have an official DOP (Designation of Protected Origin).  The tomatoes are known for their sweet flavor, bright red color, and low acidity.

THE DOUGH: The pizza dough must be made with at least 80 percent highly refined Italian 00 flour and a long fermentation period, with the dough taking almost 8 hours to rise. Then the pizzaiolo takes the dough and flattens it into a circle with a thin middle, and a thicker border known as the cornicione.

THE CHEESE: Add buffalo mozzarella cheese and a precise baking method of 90 seconds or less at more than 800 degrees Fahrenheit in wood-fired oven and you’ll have yourself a great Neapolitan style pizza.

Besides the strict requirements for the ingredients, the unique domed pizza oven at Randolfi’s is critical for success. You can have the greatest ingredients in the world, but still fall short if you don’t have the proper equipment to bake the pizza. At Randolfi’s, their Ferrara domed wood-burning oven was built by hand in Naples and is THE big-name oven for all serious Neapolitan pizza places. The crown and the dome are made with hand-pressed bricks, while the oven’s floor is made from special clay from Italy’s Sorrento region. The oven is built to withstand heat up to 1000 degrees Fahrenheit and is durable for more than 20 years.The cost of such an oven is around $13,000 to buy, and does not include shipping and importing. This oven enables Randolfi’s to cook their pizzas in 90 seconds or less. 

ATMOSPHERE AT RANDOLFI'S: Cozy, smaller family type of Italian restaurant that you might find in Italy, complete with red and white checkered table cloths. They have a large bar and an open kitchen, with a large wood-fired pizza oven.

RECOMMENDED PIZZAS: 1. The Pepperoni, which has mozzarella, San Marzano Tomato, chili flake, and pepperoni. 2. Randolfi, which has mozzarella, white bolognese, tomato, and oregano.

Taylor Hamilton, the pizzaiolo at Randofi's, was a very nice, approachable young man who sincerely cared that my pizzas were made perfectly and that I enjoyed them. As obsessive as I am about eating tasty pizza, he obsesses over making quality pizza. I was also greeted with great hospitality by Executive Chef Tommy Andrew. I thoroughly enjoyed Randolfi’s pizza and I make this the first place that is not on my top 10 list to have my P of Approval.

Randolfi's is located at 6665 Delmar Blvd. University City, Mo. 63130 

Top 10: Dewey's Does Pizza and Dining Differently

 Top 10:
Dewey's Does Pizza and Dining Differently

TOP: Brian Andrew and Stlpizzaguy give Deweys the “P” of Approval. The Pizza on the right is half Bronx Bomber and half Don Corleone. The pizza on the left is pepperoni. Brian Andrew is a great friend of mine who is instrumental in encouraging and promoting my pizza blog. After many months of asking to be on the blog, I relented to let him gain some pizza fame

BOTTOM: I love Deweys so much that it is my Facebook cover photo. This is a classic picture of the second time I visited Deweys Pizza in 2012. It captures the pure joy of seeing and anticipating a hot, fresh pepperoni pizza after having to wait a cramped hour in Dewey’s hallway of eager pizza eaters forced to wait.

The Large D outside this St. Louis pizza staple isn’t just for Dewey, it is for different. From the revolving waiters and waitresses one might encounter, to an open pizza kitchen, to the small size of the restaurant, and most importantly to their great tasting pizza, everything is carefully calculated to provide a certain different dining experience filled with anticipation and satisfying pizza.

When you enter the restaurant, you walk in to a narrow hallway that serves as a waiting area for customers.  Be prepared to wait to get seated as a customer here. You will wait anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour during weekend dinner time. As you walk through the narrow hallway filled with various pizza awards, on your left you see a busy open pizza kitchen through a large window, with cooks kneading the dough, tossing the dough, or throwing pepperoni at the kids who are staring. On your right, the room opens up into a small bar and modestly sized restaurant.

If you are brave or have a lunch hour to come here, the pizza is definitely worth it in the end. My usual experience is you can barely get in the restaurant because it is so crowded during the weekends, like trying to get into a popular, crowded club, but the prize of everyone at Dewey's is the pizza. This is the Dewey's experience.

Dewey does dining differently

Revolving waiters, waitresses, and an artificially small restaurant

Every customer has a hostess who seats you, one staff member who takes drink order,  another for a preliminary salad order, another person who takes the pizza order, one server who delivers your food and another server who comes and asks for refills. Instead of only having one server throughout the night, you could have as many as five! Dewey's uses a great team approach to serving guests with the staff constantly roaming the room and taking customers through the dining process. Have no fear, Dewey's uses the same staff member to deliver and pick up the check.  

When I’m waiting at the Kirkwood, Webster, or St. Charles location for upwards of an hour in a narrow hallway,  I get angry and say that Dewey’s purposely makes their places artificially crowded by having such a small dining area. The pizza place could easily be double the size given the high demand, and in fact most restaurants today are rather large. The size of a Dewey's pizza dining area is probably equivalent to most people's living room and kitchens combined, and there may be room for one large party but not much. Quality control has to be the reason for the small size of the restaurant. A pizza place that has many carry-out orders plus demanding customers dining in must have a kitchen with capacity to handle the crowd. Whenever I am at a Dewey's, their pizzas always come out within 20 minutes of ordering it. Recently I went to Mellow Mushroom, with a dining area quadruple the size of Dewey's. Although I didn't have to wait to be seated, I waited for almost AN HOUR for my pizza.

So the bottom line is although I have to wait to get seated at Dewey's during dinner time, the pizza comes out quickly once I order.

MY PIZZA PICKS:

The Bronx Bomber (Left) and the Don Corleone (Right). The other half of the pizza in both pictures is pepperoni.

The pizzas are VERY artistic looking eye-catching, but it tastes even better than it looks. The freshness of the dough and the toppings are always something that sticks out to me. My top choices for pizzas here are the Bronx Bomber and the Don Corleone The Bronx Bomber showcases the most fresh toppings with green peppers, onions, mushroom, circular sausages, olives, and pepperoni piled on top of each other. The Don Corleone features pepperoni, capicola ham, and genoa salami--the perfect meat lovers pizza.

Those are my traditional pizza picks. I am a traditional red sauce pizza lover. For the more adventurous non-traditional pizza lovers, Dewey's has more than five olive oil, ranch, or white-sauce based pizzas on the menu. Dewey's makes all types of pizza very well. And if you can't agree on red sauce or white sauce, Dewey's does half-and-half pizzas so no one has to impose their pizza preferences on the other person.

THE PIZZA DETAILS:

Dewey's uses a high temperature deck oven, cooking pizzas in less than 8 minutes at temperatures over 500 degrees. Their style of pizza is closest to New York-style, with pizzas coming in 11', 13', and 17'. 

THE CRUST: Chewy, but in a good way. The crust at the end is not overly crisp, but slightly chewy. Many people who have been to Dewey's say that this is their favorite crust in St. Louis.

THE SAUCE: A zesty marinara sauce plentifully spread throughout the pizza. Slightly sweet.

THE TOPPINGS: I was once told that Dewey's gets their toppings fresh from the Hill at an Italian meat market. I will say they taste very fresh, and also that some toppings are not baked in the pizza, like the green peppers and onions are put in late in the baking process, making a great contrast to the well-cooked sausage and pepperoni.

THE CHEESE: Mozzarella

If you haven't been to Dewey's yet, give it a try. This Cincinnati-based pizza chain with St. Louis roots is a pizza treasure. 

Matt Burke is a great friend of mine from Parkway North High School. Last March, we visited Deweys and I told him about my plans for the pizza blog. Many of my memories with Matt focus around pizza since almost every Friday night we would eat Pizza Hut at his house before watching Chapelle’s Show on Comedy Central. He is famous for consistently eating an entire large thin-crust pizza from Pizza Hut.

SPECIAL SHOUT OUT to my brother Evan Block. Dewey's has been his favorite pizza for at least the last 10 years. Thanks to his persistence, I've had it more than 50 times now, and it is in the top 10. 

FUN FACT: Andrew DeWitt of the Cardinal DeWitt family opened the first Dewey's in Cincinnati in 1998. It quickly spread to St. Louis, Missouri and has locations in Illinois and Kansas.